From The Chesapeake To The Delaware

Since July 4th and the holiday weekend were approaching, we decided to follow the advice of the Cruising Guide and avoid the C&D Canal and Chesapeake City on Friday and Saturday.  They celebrate with a big firework show on Friday and, according to the Guide, the harbor is packed on that weekend.

So, we travelled up the Sassafras River to Turners Cove and dropped anchor for two nights to avoid the commotion.  It was a great, fresh water cove so we swam, paddle-boarded and cleaned the hull.  All of the above helped us remain cool.  We really relaxed and enjoyed the cove.

Sunday morning, we headed to the C&D Canal which connects the Chesapeake Bay to the Delaware River.  We timed our trip to coincide with the incoming tide.  The current in the canal was over 3 mph and we hit speeds of over 8 mph.  About midway through the canal, we stopped for fuel, ice and lunch at Schaefers Canal House & Marina before anchoring in the Basin at Chesapeake City.  While eating lunch, we saw a flyer on the table advertising their special dinner in the ballroom and special seating for the big 4th of July celebration and fireworks show on SUNDAY night!  Wait, what happened to Friday night?  We had arrived just in time for the craziness.  The fireworks were good, but the entertainment at the boat ramp near the anchorage was priceless!

Then, Monday morning, it was off to Philadelphia.  Our ride out the C&D Canal was turbocharged by the current and then we caught a rising tide to Philly.  The Delaware River is very industrial and there is constant Big Ship traffic to deal with.  It was a long day, but we arrived safely and tied up at the Philadelphia Marine Center. 

After three days in Philly (read Bev’s post), we set off back down the Delaware River on a falling tide.  With the extra push from the current, we were moving 7-8 mph.  When the tide changed, we dropped to 3-4 mph.  The last two hours going into Delaware City were brutal.

The owner and staff at Delaware City Marina have set the standard by which all other marinas will be judged!  Their knowledge and competence are matched only by their attitude and eagerness to assist.  When we arrived, we were told to make a starboard approach as the current was running nearly 3 mph.  Once we landed, the dockhand took our lines and spun the boat around, so we would be facing out when the time came to leave. 

Because the Delaware is very wide, very shallow and very busy, the owner holds a weather briefing at 5:00 p.m. every day.  This helps boaters with their “Go/No Go” decision for the next morning.  We delayed our departure 3 times based on data provided at those briefings.  Thank goodness, the winds hit 35 knots on one of those days!  When the wind finally subsided, there were 6 boats leaving for the 11-12 hour run to Cape May.  Once again, the fast-moving tide played a role and we hit a top speed of 9.3 mph on our eleven-hour trip down the Bay.

We entered the Cape May Canal and docked for the night at the Canyon Club Marina, From here we will go out the Cape May Inlet into the Atlantic Ocean to continue our trip north.

Philadelphia

First, let me apologize to anyone who calls Philadelphia home.  And, it could have been the 108-degree heat index during our 3-day stay, BUT, we were sorely disappointed in our visit to the city of brotherly love.  Maybe DC and Baltimore spoiled us with their beautifully developed waterfronts.  Philadelphia has not invested in their waterfront; it is run-down and dirty.

We arrived at our marina, Philadelphia Marine Center, and were escorted into a 30’ slip.  Stealaway is 40’ overall including the 6’ bowsprit.  Our cockpit was beyond the finger pier (making it difficult to climb on and off the boat), our stern and dinghy were hanging out in the fairway and our bowsprit extended over the walkway.  We had to tie across 2 slips to keep our bowsprit from being a hazard to other boatowners as they traveled the dock after dark. 

We were charged an extra $.50 per foot for our 3-day stay because the city had a firework display on the 4th (not just the night of the 4th as we were quoted).  We couldn’t even see the fireworks from our boat; we had to walk to the fuel dock to get a glimpse of them.  When I discussed the inaccuracy of our bill with the manager, she apologized for the miscommunication and offered us free t-shirts as consolation.  Now we have nicely embroidered t-shirts advertising a marina we would never recommend.

Location, location, location.  Our slip was directly beneath the Ben Franklin Bridge connecting Philadelphia and Camden over the Delaware River.  This bridge provides for vehicle, pedestrian, and yes, light rail…all night long.  As if the noise of the trains were not enough, there was an open-air bar, Morgan’s Pier, on the pier right next to the marina.  Morgan’s Pier draws quite a crowd and they entertain with lively music until 2 or 3 a.m. every night.  Between the heat, the trains and the music, sleep was hard to come by!

While in Philly, we did take in a baseball game, tour the historic district, watch the Independence Day parade and eat a cheesesteak.  The highlight (other than the Phillies game) was the free Pops concert on the lawn of Independence Hall.  It was cancelled due to thunderstorms☹

Small Towns and Big Cities

After leaving St. Mary’s and the Potomac River, it was north on the Chesapeake Bay in route to Baltimore and Philly.  Our first overnight was the small town of Solomon’s, Maryland.  It is home to more boats than we have seen in such a condensed space.  Marinas line every ounce of shoreline and leave very little fairway to maneuver.  We stayed two nights and visited the marine museum by water and the town by bicycle.  Our dock neighbor provided some excitement by somersaulting over the railing of their trawler as her husband was leaving the dock.  It was amazing how many people appeared from seemingly nowhere to lend a hand.  All ended well with just a bruised ego and one lost flip-flop.

Next up was a trip across the Bay to the small towns of Oxford, Cambridge and St. Michael’s on the Eastern shore.  If one were to lose their map, they would think they were in New England.  All three were great little towns made for walking, shopping (Mom & Pop shops), looking at boats (Hinckley yard), and, of course, eating ice cream.

We then traveled back across the Bay and into Annapolis, MD.  What an awesome place!  The history of the early days of the U.S. as well as the Naval Academy.  Everything here is steeped in tradition.  It is very humbling to visit these places.

After two days in Annapolis, it was on toward Baltimore.  We passed under the Bay Bridge that connects mainland Maryland to the Eastern shore.  Once through, we turned up the Pasquotank River and into Bodkin Creek.  We tied up at Pleasure Cove Marina which was a small but well-equipped marina.  The staff were very helpful including one of them lending us his truck to go find parts.  We stayed two days and bid farewell to Dale, who had been with us for almost 3 weeks.  We had a blast!  We left the marina and anchored one more night in the creek.

Sunday morning, it was up early to make our way up the Pasquotank River into the historic and very busy Baltimore harbor.  As we approached the Key Bridge, we were in a procession of vessels that included a cruise ship, a car carrier, us and a tug pushing a barge.  On their way out were two more tugs and a container ship.

Baltimore was great!  The city has created a safe, fun and welcoming waterfront area that stretches for several miles.  While there, we stayed in two marinas, visited Fort McHenry, the National Aquarium, the B&O Railroad Museum and Camden Yard.  We also partook of the awesome culinary delights of the city. 

After four days of big city, we needed the relaxing atmosphere of a small town again, so it was back across the Bay to Rock Hall, MD.  We tied to a mooring ball at Swan Creek Marina, took a tram into town for $1.00 each, found ice cream, groceries, and got a haircut. 

Big cities may have a lot to offer in terms of history, food and things to see, but small towns are rich with personality and a calmness that makes you feel very welcome and comfortable.