Welcome to Canada! Eh!

The morning arrives to start across Lake Ontario…finally.  NOAA forecast for near-shore waves and wind are good.  We clear Lock 8 in the Oswego Canal at 7:30 a.m. and we’re on the lake!  Pretty rough, but we expect it to get better after we clear the jetty.  It didn’t get better.  We were taking 2-3-foot waves on our beam and without sails to help stabilize us, we were rolling side to side all the way to Sackets Harbor…for 6 hours.  The carnage inside the boat was the worst we have ever experienced.  Dishes and toiletries fell off the shelves, spices flew off the rack, plates came over the cabinet ledge and landed in the sink, water jugs in the floor even turned over!  Outside wasn’t any better with jerry cans on their sides and sun showers sliding off the cabin top.

By the time we arrived at Navy Point Marina in Sackets Harbor, the wind had picked up.  Thank goodness the staff were at our slip to help us get in and tie to the dock.  We stayed 2 nights in Sackets Harbor learning its history and visiting battle sights from the War of 1812.  Worked hard to reduce our wine stock to the limit of 2 bottles per person and clear our pantry of fresh fruits and veggies before crossing into Canadian waters.

Our next leg on Lake Ontario was much smoother; we checked in to Confederation Basin Marina in Kingston 5 ½ hours later.  We were directed to clear customs by phone before exiting the marina, so we headed to the gate with our passports and Storm’s vaccination papers in hand.  After 5 minutes on hold, a young lady answered and took our boat registration and passport information.  She asked if we had firearms or cannabis aboard (not interested in the fruit I threw out in Canadian waters).  Jim told her we had a cat aboard to which she responded, “Oh, you have a kitty!”, (not interested in the manufacturer & lot # of his rabies vaccine we were instructed to have).  Ok, we’re in.

Kingston, the first capital of Canada, is a wonderful old walking city.  Lots of limestone buildings and tons of history.  We took the Hop-on, Hop-off trolley tour (some of their trolleys came from Charleston!) visiting the Royal Military Academy (equivalent to our West Point), Fort Henry (built to protect the city and waterways from the aggressive Americans), Wardens house at the Kingston Penitentiary, Maritime museum, Queens University,  St. Mary’s Cathedral, City Hall and St. George’s Cathedral. 

Heading west toward the Trent Severn Waterway, our next stop was Picton.  Known for their wineries, we thought we might visit a couple and re-stock.  Jim wasn’t up for a bike ride, so we decided to walk through town to the closest one.  Let’s just say the map wasn’t to scale.  After 1.8 miles in the blistering heat, we arrived at Black Prince Winery.  Did a tasting, bought a couple bottles and called a cab to get back!

Last stop before entering the waterway, the lovely Trent-Port Marina in Trenton, Ontario.  First-class facility, experienced dockhands, shower facilities rivaled a 5-star resort and FREE washers and dryers.  Almost too good to be true!  We arrived on a festival weekend; while the street festival was more akin to a flea market, the free Big Band concerts and fireworks were awesome!  We dined al fresco on pizza while enjoying the Toronto All-Star Big Band, a group of 16 to 22-year old’s in black & white formal attire playing big band music from the 40’s and 50’s.  Their talent was matched only by their energy; they were having a blast!  Afterwards, we returned to the boat for a front-row seat to some of the best fireworks we have seen in years.

Spent our final day in Trenton re-provisioning at the farmers market, grocery and LCBO (Liquor Control Board Ontario).  Couldn’t purchase a 6-pack or 12-pack of my Bud Light Orange; paid $2.90 Canadian EACH for 16 oz cans.  Ouch!  Did our part to help subsidize Canada’s healthcare!  

For many years we have listened to other Loopers debate who has the best Butter Tarts in Canada. They are a small pastry similar to a miniature pecan pie. So, while at the farmers market, we purchased our first (of what we expected to be many) Canadian Butter Tarts.  You will find me at the ice cream counters in the future!!

Season 2, Take 2 - Bumps in the Road

In preparation for our departure, we went to the laundromat, re-provisioned the boat, took on water, filled the sun-showers, pumped up the bicycle tires and strapped everything on-board.  Unbeknown to us, the sun-showers promptly began leaking, a tiny stream of water making its way down the cabin top, into the porthole, soaking our comforter, pillows, sheets and mattress.  We discovered this as we prepared to retire for the night, excited about getting under way early the next morning.  Lovely.  We spent the stormy night on opposite settee cushions transitioning from hot and humid to a slight chill in the cabin by sunrise.

Hugging our new friends goodbye, we threw off the lines and headed west on the Erie Canal.  After exiting our first lock, Lock 23, we noticed the engine sounded funny.  As we looked at the new panel of gauges, they all read normal, but there was smoke seeping out around the edges.  Then we noticed the smoke rolling out of the cabin!  YIKES!!

I took the helm as Jim went below to investigate and get Storm out of the cabin.  As he stepped onto the cabin floor, he was standing in water.  And the smoke was so thick he couldn’t locate Storm!  He opened all the hatches to air out the cabin and peered into the engine compartment with a flashlight. He quickly identified the problem:  the hose clamp had come loose from the muffler directing the smoke and water discharge into the engine compartment instead of out the transom.

Jim located Storm at his food bowl, either oblivious to the smoke and water or enjoying his last supper!  Storm joined me in the cockpit while I armed the manual gusher pump and Jim steered us to a nearby private dock so we could cut the engine and make repairs.

Safely tied to the dock, Jim went below while I continued to discharge gallons of water with the gusher pump.  I looked up to notice a woman standing on the dock, arms crossed, scowling at me.  She began to barrage me with questions and accusations, “WHAT are you doing??  This is a private dock!  You can’t tie up here!  You should have come to our home and asked permission!!”   I tried to explain our emergency, taking on water, i.e. SINKING, quick repair, we’ll be off your dock momentarily, etc., but she was having none of it.  Fortunately, two men joined her on the dock and got her to stop her attack!  They offered us tools, assistance, and enjoyed the story of our journey while Jim made the necessary repair and got us under way.  We thanked them for their assistance and the use of their dock while Little Miss Full of Herself begrudgingly muttered “You’re welcome”.

Next stop, Lock 1 on the Oswego Canal, Phoenix.  Late breakfast and laundromat to repair the sun-shower damage.  Welcome to Day 1, Season 2…take 2!

Ruby comes aboard!!

While in route back to Brewerton, I called Beta Marine U.S. to inquire about the availability of a new 30hp engine.  Normal delivery is 4 – 6 weeks upon placing order.  On this day, the stars were aligned in my favor.  A 30hp engine was due to arrive this very day and it was not pre-sold!  Moments later, credit card surrendered, the engine was pre-sold to us.  We settled on the required accessories and within 24 hours the engine was on a truck headed our way.  It arrived 5 days later, and we scheduled haul-out. 

Upon opening the crate containing the bright red motor, Bev looked in and exclaimed “Ruby”!  Thus, she will always be known as Ruby.

Since the replacement was expected to take about 1 to 2 weeks (and living on a boat out of the water on jack stands is such great fun) Bev decided to go to Kentucky to visit her Dad for 10 days, allowing her sister a well-deserved vacation and being there for Dad’s 85th birthday celebration.

So, into the engine compartment I went.  Ripping out lines, cables and hoses can be fun when you know you aren’t going to be putting them back in again!  Once disconnected, the marina staff helped me hoist the old Volvo out.  Underneath lay 28 years of bilge scum.  It took 3 days of scraping, grinding and cleaning to remove that legacy.  In the process, I found 2 fuel leaks and one water leak coming from areas that were inaccessible with the engine in place.

With a fresh coat of paint in the bilge, it was time to have the marina staff help me bring Ruby aboard.  Once in place, it took a few additional days to reconnect fuel lines, battery cables, water lines and prop shaft.  Oh, I failed to mention that Ruby turns the opposite direction of the Volvo, requiring a new prop as well!

Monday morning was launch day.  Bev had returned on Sunday, so it was “all hands-on deck” to celebrate Stealaway returning to the water.  Ruby sprang to life and I played “proud Papa” for about 15 minutes when the high temperature alarm went off.  I began searching for the cause, checking and re-checking everything I had done.  I spent a day troubleshooting with Beta Marine U.S. to no avail.  The next day, a call to the factory in England revealed a factory oversight that was causing the overheating.  A quick fix and all is well in the world again!

After an afternoon of sea trials on Oneida Lake, we pronounced the repower complete and made plans to depart Ess-Kay Yards on Friday.  You know you have been somewhere too long when marina staff, owners and other customers line up for hugs and farewells when you untie from the dock!