Demopolis to Mobile

We arrived at Kingfisher Marina, Demopolis Alabama on November 17th.  Nice marina and the last one we’ll see for several days, so we stayed 2 nights to rest (i.e. do laundry, clean and provision). 

The next leg of our trip is the Black Warrior-Tombigbee Waterway; 217 miles of very windy river and 2 locks between Demopolis and Mobile Bay.  There are no stops on this section of the rivers, other than Bobby’s Fish Camp (enough said), so we will anchor out each night.  This brings up several concerns for us: Can we keep the electronics charged (phones, laptop, hotspot, VHF radio, pocket juice, etc.)?  Will the ice in our beverage/vegetable cooler hold out that long?  Will our 12-volt system (refrigerator, lights) stay charged overnight without shore power?  Will our holding tank capacity be enough?  Will we freeze?  We hope to make the journey in 4-5 days, but weather, including rain and fog, can turn this into an adventure of longer duration.

We left Kingfisher Marina with a Nordic Tug (C-Bird II) later than hoped due to heavy fog.  C-Bird II was kind enough to run our speed, leading the way with her radar, until the fog lifted.  We hoped to make Bashi Creek, the first real anchorage, before nightfall, a 70-mile run.  We were not eager to anchor just out of the channel behind a bridge abutment with tows passing during the night!  The river gave us a good push; we dropped anchor in Bashi Creek at 4:00.  The creek was very narrow and surrounded by overhanging trees.  Thank goodness we don’t have our masts up!

We were tired after a long day underway and only 20-miles to our second anchorage, so we slept in until 6:00 and had a hot breakfast before weighing anchor.  Sunny with temps forecast at 75 degrees, so Jim filled a sun shower in hopes of a warm shower in the cockpit tonight😊. We dropped anchor in Okatuppa Creek at noon.  Much wider (and less eerie) than Bashi Creek.  The weather was as forecast, absolutely beautiful!  We grilled dogs for lunch and soaked up the sun.  Unfortunately, it was not warm enough to heat up our sun shower, so I heated water on the stove to compensate.

Our third day out was a 60-mile run plus our final lock.  We hoped to be underway at first light, but the lock 6-miles downriver was tied up with a couple of tows.  We made our way slowly down the river and cleared the Coffeeville Lock at 9:10 a.m.  We made our anchorage, Three Rivers Lake, at 4:00, thanks to the boost from the current.  So far, we have had no problem keeping everything charged with Ruby and the solar panels.  The sunny days have been a blessing!

Day 4 is a 52-mile journey with no locks.  We do have to request a bridge opening at a railroad lift bridge, our first this season.  We turn off the Mobile River at the Tensas Cutoff and drop anchor in Big Briar Creek at 2:00.  We are now only 12-miles from the mouth of Mobile Bay.  And we still have ice in the cooler!  It got very windy during the night, but our anchor held tight. 

At 7:00 a.m., we weighed anchor and headed down the final stretch of the Mobile River.  The river became very industrial and busy.  The banks were lined with cranes and loading docks; the river was crowded with tows, barges, and tankers.  As the river dumped us into the bay, we were met with whitecaps and 15-20 knot winds.  The dinghy started submarining in the high waves; as she filled with water, I feared she might leave us! 

Uncomfortable 8-miles to the entrance of Dog River and it didn’t improve there.  The north winds were blowing the water out of the river, we had only a foot of water under our keel most of the way into the marina.  Fortunately, we did not run aground!  We took on fuel and pumped out at Dog River Marina, then headed to our slip at Turner Marine.  Steal Away weathered the 5-day journey very well, keeping us safe, warm, and charged with a little bit of ice remaining in the cooler!  After a year as an ugly trawler, we are scheduled to step our masts here converting Steal Away to a sailing vessel once again😊.

The Tenn-Tom Waterway

After a few miles on Pickwick Lake, we entered the Tennessee-Tom Bigbee Waterway, better known as the Tenn-Tom.  The Tenn-Tom Waterway is a 253-mile stretch that connects the Tennessee River at Pickwick Lake to the Black Warrior River at Demopolis, Alabama.  The Tenn-Tom is comprised of rivers and canals that lower you 267 feet via 10 locks.

Our first day on the Tenn-Tom, we traversed the 25-mile long canal that connects Pickwick Lake and Bay Springs Lake.  Our transient dockage for the night was at Bay Springs Marina on the outside pier of a large, covered dock housing big houseboats and motor yachts.  While there, we were able to fill our propane tank and were invited to docktales by a couple of the liveaboards.  Cocktails turned into a dinner invitation, Great Northern beans with smoked pork, grilled bread, and deviled eggs.  Yummy, and I didn’t have to use that propane!

The next morning, we locked through our first lock at 7:15 a.m., the Jamie Whitten Lock, with an 84-foot drop. Very smooth, and the friendly lockmaster called the next lock so they would be ready for us.  The next two locks went just as smoothly with no wait.  When we exited our third lock, it was spitting rain, so we decided to call it a day and tied up at Midway Marina.  Enjoyed a really good fried seafood lunch at Guy’s Place, the onsite restaurant, and used the courtesy car for a Walmart run. 

The next morning, we woke to heavy fog followed by rain and wind.  We decided to stay put even though our accommodations at Midway were less than desirable: one bathroom/shower for the entire marina and restaurant to share, dockage next to a houseboat with a 3-year old and 2 yip-yip dogs!  Children’s programming blared all day, and we were serenaded in the evening by either the child’s happy squeals or the dogs incessant barking.

The next day, we transited another 3 locks and docked at a free dock in the Blue Bluff Recreation Area.  A second day of locking through upon arrival, no waiting, and smooth ride.  We were joined late afternoon at the free dock by another Looper, Happy Trails, a large motor-sailor with a pilothouse.  We talked across the dock over cocktails and learned the couple would be crossing their wake in Demopolis!  They have been aboard for one year but had delays (New York) and re-routing (No Canada) compliments of COVID-19.  Also learned we had friends in common that we traveled with in Season 2: Vitamin Sea and Adagio!

Next day (Friday the 13th), we made the short hop to Columbus Marina.  Columbus is the largest town we will encounter until Mobile, and I wanted to treat Jim to a birthday dinner out complete with dessert!  Several Looper boats were in the Columbus Marina, so there was a happy hour gathering on the dock.  We were treated to appetizers by Kathy & David aboard Godspeed including grilled Boudin, a Louisiana specialty!   Five other Loopers decided to join us for Jim’s birthday dinner at Harvey’s.  Prime Rib followed by Brownie Delight.  The Captain was happy😊

We stayed a second day at Columbus as our buddy boaters from Season 1 called and wanted to visit.  They were in Demopolis pulling the engine from Déjà Vu for rebuild.  We had not seen Butch and Charlie for over 2 years, so we had a great reunion in the cockpit of Stealaway, catching up on our lives and sharing adventures.

The next two nights on route to Demopolis, we anchored out.  Marinas begin to get scarce at this point on the rivers.  Our first anchoring experience in over a year (remember, we just rafted up last year with our “mobile marina”, Alittle Loopy) was not good.  Not nearly as much water as the guidebook indicated.  We ran aground twice as we tried to anchor, and the next morning it took forever to get the anchor up!  The anchor rode was tangled on something BIG and it took 3 attempts powering forward over the anchor to break it loose.  Our second night at anchor went much better; plenty of water and the anchor came up clean.  YEAH!!  Both nights out at anchor, the weather decided to act a little more like November and the temperature dipped down to 36 degrees.  At anchor, we have no heat, so we tried out one of the Captain’s birthday gifts, a 20-degree Coleman sleeping bag.  We unzipped that sucker and spread it on top of the flannel sheets and comforter in the V-berth.  Toasty warm😊  I actually had to stick a foot out during the night to cool off!  As in construction, it’s all about having the right tools.

 

Adventures in the Dark!!

Making our way south (upstream) on the Tennessee River, we were struggling to maintain 4.5 mph because of the current flow against us.  We (I) decided to continue past our planned anchorage and instead proceed through the Pickwick Lock and stay at the Pickwick Landing State Park Marina.  A phone call to the lockmaster confirmed my decision.  He stated there was another pleasure craft about the same distance away and he would lock the two of us together in the auxiliary chamber. There was a commercial tow arriving at approximately the same time and he would be in the main chamber.  Our planned arrival was 4:00 p.m.  This would give us time to make our destination before dark, which was less that a mile past the lock.

Upon arrival at the lock, the lockmaster informed us that he was locking the commercial tow and the other pleasure craft in the main chamber and once they were clear, he would raise the chamber for us.  No use of the auxiliary chamber meant we would have to wait about an hour to lock through.  Since our destination was so close, I was not concerned about travelling the final mile after dark.

Darkness arrived as we entered the lock chamber.  Since it was a cloudy evening, there was no ambient light beyond sunset.  About 45 minutes later, as the lock gates opened for us to exit, we suddenly lost all 12-volt house power.  While the engine was still running (thank goodness!), we lost our lights and all navigation equipment (running lights so other boats could see us, electronic charts, depth sounder, etc.)  We knew the general direction of the marina, but the “well marked channel” simply did not exist. 

Bev, armed with a poor excuse of a flashlight, stood at the bow searching for channel & hazard markers and to signal any oncoming traffic.  There was none.  This was both a blessing and a curse.  If another boat had come along, I could simply follow him in.  NOPE!

Bev had the idea to call the state park even though we knew the marina was closed for the evening.  A park ranger returned my call and after explaining our situation, he drove to the shoreline with his blue lights flashing to provide a target for me to approach.  As we neared the shore, the park ranger would move his vehicle in order to illuminate hazards and, eventually, the small, crooked inlet leading to the marina.  Once we entered the basin, he parked his truck and came down to the dock to help us tie up.  Kudos Ranger David!!  What a guy!

The next morning, I found a disconnected wire that prevented the engine from charging the house batteries as well as preventing me from switching to the starting batteries for backup.  Our journey that day was almost 12 hours and cloud cover kept the solar panels from keeping the house batteries charged.  A perfect storm! 

I subsequently stood before a mirror and had a few choice words with my mechanic for being so negligent (that would be me!)